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costumehistory:

ephemeral-elegance:

Steel and Diamond Tiara, ca. 1912

Cartier

via Sotheby’s

What an odd thing, and such an interesting example of innovation a time of inductrial development.

According to Sotheby’s, it was “purchased in 1912 at Cartier as a wedding gift for the grandmother of the present owner.”

“This unusual and attractive tiara is one of a small group of about five Cartier diadems made of blackened steel and diamonds between 1912 and 1915. These steel tiaras were originally kept in place with a ribbon at the back, as in this example with its original fitting. All these particular tiaras appear to have been made for Cartier by the Parisian workshop Henri Picq. An alternative patination in green on copper is suggested by a design for a kokoshnik of this type that appears in the Workshop Estimate Book for 1913. Although the design is of black colour, it is annotated ‘étoiles brillantes sur fond cuivre teint vert-de-gris’ (diamond stars on a copper ground the colour of verdigris).”

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Dorothy Joan Gray

May 2017

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